Snowy Owl TUNDRA GHOST High Imapct vs Low Impact Images

 

Snowy Owl TUNDRA GHOST (Bubo scandiacus, Harfang des neiges, SNOW) Ontrario. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds. Canon EOS Canon EOS 1DX, 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM ISO 2,000 f/5.6 @ 1/4,000s Manual mode. PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION HERE.

High Impact vs. Low Impact images

We all know the “shock & awe” value of a close-up action image posted to your favourite critique forum, web site, Facebook Page, Instagram or Twitter feed; The instant connection between the viewer and the high impact, awe inspiring thumbnail is often rewarded with lots of Likes, comments and kudos. Do you take the time to step back, zoom-out and see the bigger picture? Do you think about more distant views?   Do you think about including some habitat in your images? Do you strive to make the kind of image that often looks better on your wall or in a calendar, but is often over-looked on websites because the thumbnail is not as visually “exciting”? Do you think about making "low impact" images?

More Kudos: Chris Dodds knows how to do a workshop!

I had the pleasure of attending Chris' Snowy Owl Workshop this past January. To be honest, I did not know much about Chris before the trip. All I knew was the quality of his images on his website and that I wanted Snowy owl pictures. Needless to say, Chris met and exceeded my expectations. He goes over and above to get you in the right place at the right time to capture the best images possible. Having been on numerous workshops around the world with various leaders, I can say Chris worked harder than most..... He also made sure that we were in position to get a variety of images and not just 1000 photos of the same animal behavior. Chris knows his birds and what they are going to do next (as much as humanly possible). He teaches in a way that things make sense. I was getting frustrated with my photography before this trip. I was able to get great shots before the workshop but felt that the percentage of great shots to missed shots needed to be better. Chris explained ways to change a few of my bad habits in a way that no one else ever did. I have tried manual exposure in the past but never got comfortable with it but after a day or two with Chris it clicked in my mind and my images improved and percentage of keepers went up.
If you get a chance to go on a workshop with Chris I would highly recommend it. I know I will again.

Rick Susi  Orlando, FL, USA

 

READ MORE TESTIMONIALS HERE

Jobu Designs Canon 1DX L-Bracket announced

Great Grey Owl TWO STEP (Strix nebulosa, Chouette Lapone, GGOW) Gatineau, Quebec ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS Canon EOS 1DX, 500mm F4 L IS, Tripod & Jobu Jr. 3 ISO 2,500s, f/4 @ 1/2,500s Manual mode. Click HERE to order a print or license image for publication.

Well, I've lost track of time and think I'm about to leave for week number six or seven of my winter Snowy Owl photographic workshop safaris. Here's one from last week during an epic shoot in a field of fresh snow. Do note the exposure used reflects that is was cloudy and almost dark - Read more about Sunny 16 Rule from a prior blog enty.

New Jobu Designs 1DX L-Bracket

 
Jobu Designs has come up with a unique way of solving the mounting problems with the Pro size Canon camera bodies. The LB-C1DX is a two-piece L bracket with unique side-plate that only contours to the back of the camera, leaving lots of room out front for access to the battery and rubber covers. They have also integrated a unique magnetically captured hex wrench in the base plate. The tiny magnet will hold several pounds of steel, so the hex wrench is securely attached without rattling, yet it is still easy to remove. Shoot in portrait or landscape, or remove the side-arm easily and use just the base-plate if you want to save weight and space in your backpack. Proudly made of solid aircraft grade aluminum in Canada, it is compatible with most Arca-Swiss type clamps.


SAVE 15% OFF your purchase at the JOBU store and support this site just by using the coupon code "NATURE" at the Jobu website store checkout HERE.


Le Nichoir Photo Geek Christmas Party Fundraiser

BUY TICKETS ONLINE HERE

Join me, Canadian nature photographer Christopher Dodds, on March 9, 2013 at 6:30 PM at the Casgrain Theatre (CEGEP John Abbot College 21275 Lakeshore Road, Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue, Québec H9X 3L9, Canada) for an hour and a half long slideshow presentation to benefit Le Nichoir. The show is designed to be entertaining and informative to all; nature lovers and photographers alike. Stories of adventure, natural history facts and information are all on the menu and this show is designed to offer helpful tips & techniques sure to improve your photography efforts with everything from a camera phone, point & shoot camera or professional SLR camera system. Over one hundred of his images will be projected, many unseen.  Everyone is welcome!
Hurry! Only 280 seats. Tickets are only $18.00 each and are available for advance purchase only - every penny is collected by, and goes to Le Nichoir. Please call or email Le Nichoir (communication@lenichoir.org 450-458-2809) to secure your tickets, or make a donation if you can't make it (be sure to tell them it's on behalf of Chris' Photo Geek Christmas Party) Major credit cards and cheques accepted. There will be ample time to mingle, meet my friends and contacts and share some of your images with others, so feel free to bring prints, iPads or laptops with your favourite images to share. I hope to see you there and PLEASE SPREAD THE WORD!

The door prizes were over the top last year, and thanks to my good friends and sponsors, we have secured an even better stash for this year.

If you would like to contribute door prizes for, or sponsor, this worthy cause, please email me (chris@chrisdoddsphoto.com) to discuss. It's a great way to have your product or brand mentioned in every blog post until the main event while helping an awesome cause!

Last year we raised over $2,500.00 and I am asking for your help to at least double that!

Great Grey Owl CLOUDY BRIGHT EXPOSURE MAGIC

Great Grey Owl CLOSE ENOUGH? (Strix nebulosa, Chouette Lapone, GGOW) Ottawa, Ontario ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS Canon EOS 1DX, 500mm F4 L IS, Tripod & Jobu Jr. 3 ISO 2,500, f/5.6 @ 1/2,500s Manual mode. Click HERE to order a print or license image for publication.

Snowy Winter Owl Workshops/safaris

I am having amazing times with my Snowy Winter Owl Workshops Safaris. Some amazing opportunities with Great Grey Owls this year! I have only two spots left from February 25 to March 1 this year, with only limited space left for next winter. Check it out HERE!

Cloudy bright f/5.6 rule

This is not magic - it's science! It is amazing to realize how few people have heard of the sunny 16 rule; some actually know the rule for sunny conditions, but few know what to do when it's not sunny. This is an easy way to set the correct exposure without even thinking about it with no meter and no fumbling! In cloudy conditions (when you no longer see your shadow), simply set your camera to f/5.6 and the shutter speed to the nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed (or an equivalent exposure). Take a look at the camera settings I chose for the image above, and see I used f/5.6, ISO 2,500 and 1/2,500s. Check-out my earlier post about the Sunny 16 Rule to get a better understanding and impress your photo buddies.

Canon 1DX Firmware update

Firmware Version 1.2.1 for the EOS-1D X incorporates the following improvements and fixes:

  • The function to disable the Image size selection button has been added.
  • Fixes a phenomenon in which Err 70 and Err 80 may occur in very rare instances depending on the camera settings or shooting scene.

To download the latest firmware, visit Canon Canada EOS 1DX Driver page

Photo Geek Christmas Party in MARCH!

BUY TICKETS ONLINE HERE

Please do book your tickets soon to avoid disappointment.

Join me, Canadian nature photographer Christopher Dodds, on March 9, 2013 at 6:30 PM at the Casgrain Theatre (CEGEP John Abbot College 21275 Lakeshore Road, Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue, Québec H9X 3L9, Canada) for an hour and a half long slideshow presentation to benefit Le Nichoire. The show is designed to be entertaining and informative to all; nature lovers and photographers alike. Stories of adventure, natural history facts and information are all on the menu and this show is designed to offer helpful tips & techniques sure to improve your photography efforts with everything from a camera phone, point & shoot camera or professional SLR camera system. Over one hundred of his images will be projected, many unseen.  Everyone is welcome!
Hurry! Only 280 seats. Tickets are only $18.00 each and are available for advance purchase only - every penny is collected by, and goes to Le Nichoir. Please call or email Le Nichoir (communication@lenichoir.org 450-458-2809) to secure your tickets, or make a donation if you can't make it (be sure to tell them it's on behalf of Chris' Photo Geek Christmas Party) Major credit cards and cheques accepted. There will be ample time to mingle, meet my friends and contacts and share some of your images with others, so feel free to bring prints, iPads or laptops with your favourite images to share. I hope to see you there and PLEASE SPREAD THE WORD!

The door prizes were over the top last year, and thanks to my good friends and sponsors, we have secured an even better stash for this year.

If you would like to contribute door prizes for, or sponsor, this worthy cause, please email me (chris@chrisdoddsphoto.com) to discuss. It's a great way to have your product or brand mentioned in every blog post until the main event while helping an awesome cause!

Last year we raised over $2,500.00 and I am asking for your help to at least double that!

Design Images with Visual Impact

Thick-billed Murre or  Brünnich's Guillemot VERTICAL PORTRAIT (Uria lomvia, Guillemot de Brünnich, TBMU) Saint Paul Island, The Pribilof Islands in the Bering Sea, Alaska. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds. Canon 1D MK IV, 500mm F4 L IS , 2X Teleconverter III & , Tripod & Jobu Jr. 3 ISO 800 f/16 @ 1/320s Manual Mode. Fill flash Canon Speedlite 580EX II with Better Beamer @ -1/3. PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION HERE.

Here's a couple of images from my recent Saint Paul Island Photo Safari / Workshop. We arrived there as spring was late emerging from the worst winter anyone can remember and there were shaded areas at the bottom of cliffs where the snow had not melted yet. Although I generally don't like bright white backgrounds in images, I decided to make an exercise of designing some images with white backgrounds; there is a certain quality to the white out-of-focus snow that's much more appealing to me than that of a bright & backlit white sky.

I really like getting close and designing intimate portraits with big glass, so I installed my 500mm f/4 and a 2X extender and moved so close that I had to back away to the lens' minimum focusing distance. Once set-up on my tripod and Jobu Jr. 3 gimbal tripod head, I installed my Jobu off-camera flash bracket and my Canon 580 EXII flash.

Designing these tight, almost high-key portraits can be challenging, but careful attention to balancing all of the images' elements can be quite rewarding. Be sure to spend time studying the colours, tones and textures, (or, perhaps, the lack of colours tones and textures), the positive and negative space and the lines, shapes and where they lead the eye. Look for angles and perspective, and try to visualize how changing them by moving your angle of view will impact, help or hinder your image's design.

Black-legged Kittiwake PORTRAIT CALLING (Rissa tridactyla, Mouette tridactyle, BLKI) Saint Paul Island, The Pribilof Islands in the Bering Sea, Alaska. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds. Canon 1D MK IV, 500mm F4 L IS , 2X Teleconverter III & , Tripod & Jobu Jr. 3 ISO 800 f/16 @ 1/500s Manual Mode. Fill flash Canon Speedlite 580EX II with Better Beamer @ 0. PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION HERE.

Be sure not to overlook the creative element of your exposure values; should you use an equivalent exposure with slower shutter speed and larger depth-of-field?, or will a shallow depth-of-field with higher shutter speed blurr the background (or foreground) and draw the viewer in for a closer look at the subject?

No matter where you are, what your subject; stop and think a little about designing the image and not taking the picture.

Better Bird Photography Portraits

Parakeet Auklet Portrait (Fratercula cirrhata, Macareux huppé, TUPU) Saint Paul Island, The Pribilof Islands in the Bering Sea, Alaska. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds. Canon 1D MK IV, 500mm F4 L IS , 2X Teleconverter III & Canon Extension Tube EF 25 II, Tripod & Jobu Jr. 3. Full Frame. ISO 400 f/14 @ 1/200s Manual Mode. Fill flash Canon Speedlite 580EX II with Better Beamer @ -1&2/3. PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION HERE.

Better Bird Photography Portraits

Bird photographers are often guilty of spending all of their time photographing the action and drama of birds in flight, and often skip the investment of the time required to create great portraits. I sell far more static portraits than action, or "birds-in-flight" images. Don't get me wrong; Birds-in-flight are my favorite challenge, just remember to diversify your images by going for portraits as well. It can be quite rewarding to see and study the intricate details revealed in a good portrait - check-out the unique (and cool) bill of this Parakeet Auklet. Here's a few tips to help you out next time you are out and about with your camera.

  • Try to get closer your subject without disturbing it. This one sounds easy, but wild birds are wild, take your time and avoid walking or crawling directly at your subject. Take your time and make regular stops to let your subject accept you.
  • Use a long lens and extender to help you get close without disturbance, and to take advantage of the long focal length to help blur the background and isolate the subject. I often add an extension tube to get even closer.
  • Try to choose an interesting background. Finding an interesting background will help you stand-out among the many. In this Parakeet Auklet portrait, I carefully chose the out of focus lichens as my background to set it apart from the typical blue sky of a clear day, or the white, or high-key, background of a cloudy day.
  • Invest in the composition. Carefully compose your portrait so that it is visually pleasing. Try to avoid a boring compositions with centred subjects. Compose a full frame image in the camera - to get the most pixels on your subject and as a challenge to get better and make better image in the camera.
  • Wait for the pose and head angle. All to often, I see portraits that resemble snap shots. This is often the result of poor head angle or a bad pose. I try to get the subject and it's head parallel to my sensor for most head shot type portraits, but do sometimes strive for the head-on look; the latter often in overcast conditions to avoid harsh shadows.
  • Choose your light. On clear days, choose the golden hours of sunrise or sunset to get the soft warm tones without harsh shadows. Be sure to point your shadow directly at the bird when the sun rises and gets harsher, and be sure the near side of the face is illuminated and there is a catch-light in the eye. Bright, cloudy and overcast conditions are great for digital portraits; there's no shadows to worry about, and we can photograph all day long. Avoid flash when the light is golden, but do try to add a kiss of fill flash when its overcast.
  • Be sure the image is sharp and properly exposed. Sounds easy enough, but try to remind yourself to use good long lens technique, a good tripod head and a sturdy tripod.

 

Second Annual Photo Geek Christmas Party

More prizes have arrived from these great sponsors! Jobu Designs (makers of my favorite Gimbal Head - the Jobu Jr. 3), FirstPass Image downloader & Editor, Think-Tank Photo, Cotton Carrier and DigiMarc for Images have all jumped on-board and offered tons of prizes to show their suppoort for my Second Annual Photo Geek Christmas Party. I expect other sponsors to make offerings and encourage contributions - email me if you would like to donate and promote your product chris(at)chrisdoddsphoto(dot)com

Join me, Canadian nature photographer Christopher Dodds, on November 30, 2011 at 7:30 PM at the Hudson Village Theatre (28 Wharf Road, Hudson, QC   J0P 1H0) for an hour and a half long slideshow presentation to benefit this great cause which is so close to my heart. The show is designed to be entertaining and informative to all; nature lovers and photographers alike. Stories of adventure, natural history facts and information are all on the menu and this show is designed to offer helpful tips & techniques sure to improve your photography efforts with everything from a camera phone, point & shoot camera or professional SLR camera system. Over one hundred of my images will be projected, many unseen.  Everyone is welcome!
Hurry! Only 148 seats. Tickets are only $15.00 each and are available for advance purchase only - every penny is collected by, and goes to Le Nichoir. Please call or email Le Nichoir (communication@lenichoir.org 450-458-2809) to secure your tickets, or make a donation if you can't make it (be sure to tell them it's on behalf of Chris' Photo Geek Christmas Party) Major credit cards and cheques accepted. Finger food and hors d'oeuvres are included and there will be a cash bar (please drink responsibly).
There will be ample time to mingle, meet my friends and contacts and share some of your images with others, so feel free to bring prints, iPads or laptops with your favourite images to share. I hope to see you there and PLEASE SPREAD THE WORD!

Read more about it HERE

HALF is TWICE as good - JOBU Jr 3

Burrowing Owl PORTRAIT  (Athene cunicularia, Chevêche des terriers, BUOW) Cape Coral, Florida. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon 1D MK IV, 500mm F4 L IS, 2X Teleconverter III & Canon 25mm Extension Tube. Jobu Jr. 3 & tripod. ISO 400, F11 @1/320s Manual mode. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION

HALF is TWICE as good!

I was sitting here, in front of my computer, thinking of concepts to help remind people how to make better images, when it suddenly dawned on me: HALF is TWICE as good! Well, it’s no brilliant marketing slogan, but as a concept, I think it works.

Take half the pictures, but spend twice the time composing each one; your images will, most likely, be twice as good. It's a simple principle; make the image, instead of taking the picture.

Take half the number of trips, and spend twice as much time photographing in each place; sounds simple enough, right? But imagine how much more you will learn about the place, the culture, your subject and it’s behavior. If you are shooting landscapes, you will learn about the weather, the light and how the light interacts with the scene. If you are shooting wildlife, then you will develop an intimate knowledge of your subject, it’s behavior and it’s habits. Guess what? You will probably make images that are; you guessed it, twice as good!

Keep half the pictures and those you keep will be twice as good? Well, I’m not certain that this one is true, but I am always telling people to edit, edit, edit! People tend to take so many pictures these days, and I cringe every time someone wants to show me pictures from a trip, birthday or event; they want me to sit there and see all of them! For crying out loud people: keep the best and trash the rest!

My new LOVE: Meet JR.

I confess: I’ve been using the Jobu JR. 3 Compact Gimbal Head since April, and although I got one to reduce space and weight while travelling on aircraft, I haven’t been able to use anything else since! As you all know, I have owned, and used, a Wimberley gimbal head forever. I have tried many other makes and models of gimbal head that are smaller and lighter, but never found anything that I could even settle for. The Jobu Jr. 3 was designed for smaller lenses like the 70-200mm f/2.8, 300mm f/2.8, 100-400mm and 400mm DO, etc., but I have been using mine exclusively since I left for Texas in early April; It works remarkably well with my 500mm F4 IS L, even when working with the 1.4 or 2X extenders! The level of customer service, after sale support and engineering expertise from Jobu is unmatched in the industry today!

At HALF the size and less than HALF the weight of the Wimberley Head II (23 ounces or .65 kilograms VS. 60 ounces or 1.4 kilograms), the Jobu Jr. 3 has become my main tripod head!

I have also developed a love for their one piece flash bracket, so be sure to check that out as well.

I'm thrilled to announce that I am an official distributor of the Jobu line, and have forged a terric partnership with them. Jobu heads, flash brackets and assorted items will be available for you to test-drive and purchase on all of my Canadian workshops, presentations and lectures.

Workshop updates & FREE JOBU JR.3!:

This is a tough business, I have had a few people cancel at the last minute due to illness recently, leaving some new openings is what were full workshops.

Gannets Galore on Bonaventure Island June 15-17, 2011 - 2 spots due to illness.

Puffins Galore July 1 to 3, 2011 - 2 spots due to illness.

Puffins Galore July 5-7, 2011 - 1 spot due to illness

Histogram, Details and Viveza 2.0

Northern Gannets PREENING (Morus Bassanus, Fou de Bassan, NOGA) Parc national de l'Île-Bonaventure-et-du-Rocher-Percé, Bonaventure Island, Quebec. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS 1DsMKIII, 500mm F4 L IS,  Tripod & Wimberley Head II. ISO 250, F20 @1/320s Manual mode. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION

Chris, I am a huge fan of your work and consider it the very best bird photography out there; bar none! I have been a photographer for 30 years, and wonder if you would share how you achieve such amazing details in the whitest feathers; the details that seem impossible for me to capture. I am always blown-away when I visit your works, and I delight in every moment on your site. Many thanks and keep up the great work - Art W.

Art, thank you for your kind words. I will try to keep my answer simple.

The key to getting the most out of your digital camera is exposing the image correctly, as you probably know. I expose “to the right”, but make a huge effort not to have any data touching the right side of the histogram.

With only a little experience, a quick glance at the histogram can tell you if the exposure is correct, and give you and idea of the general appearance of the image; are the highlights blown? Is there enough shadow detail? – It’s all in the histogram.

 The histogram is a tool available on most digital cameras. It is a graph, which maps the luminosity (or brightness) values of your image, from black at left to white at right. The number of pixels at any given value are represented by the height of that value’s column. Once accustomed to reviewing the histogram, analyzing the data contained in it becomes second nature. It is the only way to know if you have exposed your image properly.

I’ll save you the boring science and details, but the idea of exposing to the right is a theory that capitalizes on the fact that the right side of the histogram contains more data than the left; there is more data in the whites, than in the blacks – much more. By overexposing the image slightly, and adjusting its brightness (or exposure) while converting the RAW image after capture, there is more data or details in the image. Conversely, if you were to underexpose an image and try to brighten the image after capture, then you would introduce noise, rather than detail, which was not captured in your RAW file. You have to be very careful not to push the whites up against the right of the histogram, or you risk loosing detail.

A good workflow post capture is another critical key to maximizing any detail contained in the RAW image. I typically use Photoshop to adjust contrast, boost saturation and add a little sharpness. My master .tiff is not created until I use Nik Software's Viveza 2. Viveza 2 is powerful engine that (among other things) adds targeted tonal contrast to any whites via the structure slider – be careful, it’s easy to overdo the adjustment.

 

Image of Histogram of the PROPERLY EXPOSED image above on the camera's LCD screen - The data is to the right of the histogram, but does not show any sign of over-exposure; there is no data touching the right edge of the graph. 


 

Histogram of the same image when opened in Adobe Camera Raw for conversion without any adjustments.

 

F is for Fabulous

Northern Gannets SPOONING (fencing = pair bonding), Morus Bassanus, Fou de Bassan Parc national de l'Île-Bonaventure-et-du-Rocher-Percé, Bonaventure Island, Quebec. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds Canon EOS 1DMKIV, 500mm F4 L IS, Tripod & Wimberley Head II.  ISO 400, F18 1/200s Manual. Full Frame. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION.

F is for FABULOUS!

I’ve been asked countless times if there is a formula to creating a great image. I’ve spent countless hours scrutinizing my favorite images to try to describe to myself why I connect with them so deeply and make such an emotional response to them. I’m far from finished, but here’s my first attempt at describing a system that may help you; it’s how I create images – in a subconscious way. It’s what makes images a success to me, and to the viewer. Keep in mind that this is a working copy, and I might elaborate more in a longer post in the future.

You have to start by understanding my three Fs of FABULOUS: Fill, Form and Feeling. Every image out there contains at least one of these three ingredients; a photojournalist’s images contain more FILL and FEELING, a fine art or abstract photographer tends to feature the FORM and greeting card photographers often capture FEELING.

Here’s the key: Your most successful images will generally contain a careful balance of all three; Fill, FORM and FEELING.  The Northern Gannet image above is a very careful balance of Fill (it’s about the Northern Gannets), Form (the composition, pose and lines) and Feeling (most images with two subjects evoke some sort of emotion or feeling).

 

Save 25% on your Season pass to Point Pelee National Park of Canada

Buy or renew your annual pass to Point Pelee National Park of Canada and save 25%. From February 1, until March 31, 2011, take advantage of this great offer to start your preparations for this year's spring migration. Simply call (519) 322-2365, extension 200 from Monday to Friday from 8:30 am until 4:30 pm. I always recommend the Family (or group) pass, as this let's you enter through the automated gate and skip the sometimes lengthy line-ups each morning. 

Manual Mode for More Creative Control

Northern Saw-Whet Owl (Aegolius acadicus, Petite Nyctale) with sprinkle of snow and Meadow Vole (Field Mouse) Lunch. Ontario. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS-1D MKIV, 70-200 F2.8 IS II @180mm. ISO 800, 1/100s F8 Manual. Hand held.580EXII Flash manual mode. Full Frame. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION.

Northern Saw-Whet Owl (Aegolius acadicus, Petite Nyctale) Portrait. Ontario. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS-1D MKIV, 70-200 F2.8 IS II @200mm with 1.4X Teleconverter. ISO 800, 1/80s F7.1 Manual. Hand held. Full Frame. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION.

Choose Manual Mode for MORE Creative Control

If you frequent this blog or my website, then you most probably know that I use MANUAL MODE most often; I expose for the ambient light and focus on making pleasing images. There is another compelling reason to choose manual mode; it makes the photographer (you) think about the three variables that lead to the correct exposure (ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture). What is their relation to the image you are trying to make: Are you photographing a landscape and do you need a large depth of field? A bird in flight and do you need to freeze the action? would you rather create a blur? A bird on a perch and do you want a shallow depth of field? Will changing the ISO help me to achieve the desired result? I find that most photographers in my workshops who use anything other than manual mode are completely unaware of all that is available to them. If you find yourself always choosing aperture priority, shutter priority or program mode, then give manual mode a try next time you get out with your camera.

American Bald Eagles Tumbling - Breaking the rules - Save 25% off Point Pelee Annual Pass

 Bald Eagle Tumble Abstract (Haliaeetus leucocephalus Pygarge à tête blanche) Kachemak Bay, Homer Alaska, USA. ©Christopher Dodds http://www.chrisdoddsphoto.com All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS 1D Mark III, 500mm F4 IS, 1.4X II Tele-converter, Gitzo tripod and Wimberley Head II. ISO 400, F5.6 1/1600s Manual Exposure. Full Frame. Cropped from left and right to 4x5 Aspect Ratio for visual impact. BUY A PRINT OR LICENCE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION HERE.

Bald Eagle Tumble Abstract  (Haliaeetus leucocephalus Pygarge à tête blanche) Kachemak Bay, Homer Alaska, USA. ©Christopher Dodds http://www.chrisdoddsphoto.com All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS 1D Mark III, 500mm F4 IS, 1.4X II Tele-converter, Gitzo tripod and Wimberley Head II. ISO 400, F5.6 1/1600s Manual Exposure. Full Frame. Here is the original, un-cropped image. BUY A PRINT OR LICENCE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION HERE.

Breaking the rules...

I strive to always challenge myself to break the standard rules of art, composition and photography; especially when mother nature works against me. In the case of the image above, I was simply making the most of a bad situation; the wind was blowing against the afternoon sunlight and all of the other photographers had opted to take the afternoon off to rest or edit their images. I watched and saw that I might have a chance at something artsy, or abstract, to salvage the afternoon. As I typically challenge myself to compose my images in-camera and shoot full-frame, without cropping, I thought I would include the original, un-cropped version for you to see how cropping, or changing the images aspect ratio, changes the visual impact of the image. While it's generally a good idea to include your subject's face, or eyes(preferably with good eye contact); once in a very great while you can create something nice without including either.

The broken rules:

  • Always photograph birds-in-flight with the wind and sun at your back.
  • Always include your subject's face
  • Always ensure at least one eye is critically sharp & in-focus
  • Always ensure strong eye contact between viewer and subject
  • always follow the rules

Kudos

"I wanted to thank you for a wonderful owling trip last week.  It was great to be in the field with you and I learned a great deal about the birds, environment and my camera.  Thanks so much for being such a great naturalist, photographer and trip leader.  I will go on another trip with you in the future."                                                                                                                                                         - Lynda Goff Santa Cruz, CA (Professor Emeritus Ecology & Evolutionary Biology UC Santa Cruz)

Save 25% on your Season pass to Point Pelee National Park of Canada

Buy or renew your annual pass to Point Pelee National Park of Canada and save 25%. From February 1, until March 31, 2010, take advantage of this great offer to start your preparations for this year's spring migration. Simply call (519) 322-2365, extension 200 from Monday to Friday from 8:30 am until 4:30 pm. I always recommend the Family (or group) pass, as this let's you enter through the automated gate and skip the sometimes lengthy line-ups each morning.

The Fundamentals of Photography: Understanding the Light Meter

Siberian (Amur) Tiger Portrait Panthera tigris altaica (Tigre de L'Amour ou Tigre de Sibérie). CAPTIVE ANIMAL. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds  www.chrisdoddsphoto.com All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS 1DsMKIII, 500mm F4 IS, 2X II Tele-converter Gitzo 1325 Tripod with Wimberley Head II. ISO 800, F8 @ 1/160s Manual mode. Ambient exposure using hand-held Sekonic L-358 Light Meter. Full Frame. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION.

The in-Camera Light Meter:

Pretty much all digital cameras sold today include a built-in REFLECTIVE light meter. The volume of light measured by a reflective light meter varies relative to the color (or reflectance) of the subject, the background (and the subjects distance from it) and the chosen metering mode (or pattern); A Snowy Owl in a bright, snowy field reflects more light than a black bear on a dark, wet rock. Think of it this way: pure white reflects nearly all of the light that strikes it, and pure black reflects virtually none of the light that strikes it.
Left to it’s own devises, a digital camera in one of it’s automatic modes (Program, Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority) will use it’s built-in computer  processor and programmed algorithms to determine the appropriate exposure settings such as shutter speed, f-stop (or aperture) and ISO to render the scene at what it thinks should be 18% grey, or a mid-tone (exactly mid way between the blackest black and the whitest white). The problem is a simple one; most cameras assume that everything they photograph reflects 18% of the light that falls onto them. Not everything we see or photograph is a mid-tone; with this method, we need to compensate to achieve the correct exposure for anything that is not a mid-tone; The Snowy Owl in a Snowy field we talked about earlier would be about two stops under-exposed, so we need to add about two stops of light to the metered reading to achieve the correct exposure. The black bear on the dark, wet rock will be about two stops overexposed, so we have to remove about two stops of light from the metered reading to achieve the correct exposure. A picture of the green grass on your front lawn is a middle tone and requires no compensation to achieve the correct exposure.
The problem gets much bigger when your subject starts to move from one colored background to another, or, moves closer or further away; can you imagine dialing in the correct exposure compensation, on the fly, as a white bird flies from a blue sky background to a dark cliff face background as it gets bigger in the frame while flying toward you? (smile) ... I didn’t think so.

Hand-held Light Meter:

The single best teaching aid that I know of is a hand-held light meter; students wanting to learn exposure theory tend to improve the exposure accuracy of their captures almost instantly when handed a hand-held light meter.
In it’s simplest form, a light meter measures light;  We’ve discussed how your camera uses it’s meter to measure the light that is reflected from your subject, now let’s talk about how to measure the ambient light that falls onto your subject by using a hand-held light meter. If we can measure the AMBIENT light that falls onto the subject, we can successfully expose for the light (not the subject), and capture colors and tones as our eyes see them; white looks white, black looks black and middle tones still look like middle tones; just the same as our eyes see them. As long as you are in the same light as your subject, and the volume of light does not change between measurement and capture, you can take a reading and lock and load the chosen ISO, F-stop and shutter speed. Just like the sunny F/16 rule in my last post, you should still use your camera’s histogram to tweak the exact exposure to taste, and you should expose to the right and maximize that right most fifth of the histogram, as it contains 50% of the data in a digital capture. I typically add light to extract maximum detail from very dark subjects and remove light from very bright subjects, all the while ensuring I’m not clipping unrecoverable highlight detail.
On a clear day, from two hours after sunrise, until two hours before sunset, the light remains constant (provided it doesn't get cloudy, of course). If your subject flies from the blue sky to a dark cliff face, there is no need to make adjustments to your chosen exposure settings; the subject will be correctly exposed in manual mode.

A major difference between the old film days and digital is that instead of exposing for shadow detail on film, we now expose for the highlight. To ensure a correct exposure for the highlights, simply turn the meter’s dome toward the light source. To take a reading for the underside of a bird flying over your head, turn the dome toward the ground and to establish the correct reading for  a subject in the shade, point the dome toward the light source and use your hand to shade the dome. It won’t take long to learn all about light, it’s volume and the correct exposure relative to it.

There are many light meters to choose from, but I find the best value to be the Sekonic L-358 Flash Master Light Meter

Basic Exposure Theory: The Sunny F/16 Rule Explained

Snowy Owl Bubo scandiacus (Harfang des neiges) Casselman, Ontario. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds  www.chrisdoddsphoto.com All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS 1DsMKII, 500mm F4 IS ISO 400, F5.6 1/1600s Manual mode. Full Frame. The chart below (in the cloudy bright column) shows the correct exposure to be ISO 400 F/11 @ 1/400s. I chose to stop the action by using a higher shutter speed, so I used the equivalent exposure of ISO 400 F/5.6 @ 1/1600 second. I also knew to expect less detail in the snow and white feathers, because there are no shadows to help define them.

“What you shooting at there, Dodds?” echoed across the landscape as I set-up to photograph Snow Geese and Sandhill Cranes in New Mexico about a year ago. “What exposure you at Dodds?” was the question asked by the same gifted photographer just recently. I don’t want to embarrass anyone, so I won’t mention any names here. I truly do think that he is a gifted and talented photographer. He’s widely published and is also the first person to admit that he doesn't really know all the “techie” stuff.....and he was much closer to my exposure this year, than last. 

The single most important skill a photographer should have is a basic understanding of the fundamentals of photography. The most important tool, and the least understood aspect of photography is exposure theory. I learned photography with a totally manual camera and used slide film (seems like so long ago), so a basic understanding was necessary to make successful images.

 Q: Why bother when I can just keep things simple and take a picture, check the histogram and make any adjustments necessary? 

 A: Because having an intimate knowledge of exposure theory and your cameras functions and controls helps you grow and improve as a photographer, make better decisions and better images as a result.

In it’s simplest form, the Sunny 16 rule (or Sunny F/16 rule) states: On a bright, sunny day, the correct exposure for any middle tone subject is F/16 at the shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed. For example:

ISO 100 = 1/100 second @ F/16

ISO 200 = 1/200 second @ F/16

ISO 400 = 1/400 second @ F/16

ISO 800 = 1/800 second @ F/16

Now we have established the correct exposure, it’s time to decide if we need more depth of field or shutter speed. Each step up, or down, of one variable represents a doubling, or halving, of any other variable. If you need more shutter speed than 1/100 second @ F/16 (ISO 100), then an equivalent exposure would be ISO 100 1/1600 second @ F/4.

 

This chart illustrates the equivalent exposures for ISO 100 and 200. Each setting above will allow the same amount of light to fall on your digital cameras sensor, or film cameras film. The exposure is the same, with the only difference being either your shutter speed (to freeze or blur action) or the depth of field (very narrow to blur the background, or very large to capture an entire grand landscape sharp).

But wait! It got cloudy. Now what? The Sunny F/16 rule is actually the correct ambient exposure for an average subject under bright sunny conditions. If the sun goes behind a cloud, then the light falling onto your subject is decreased and you must make an adjustment to your basic exposure settings. Here are some aperture settings for some different daylight situations:


This is intended as a starting point, so there are exceptions. Backlight or sidelight both require adjustments to reach the correct exposure. It’s a good idea to expose to the right with your digital camera; 50% of the recorded data is recorded on the right fifth (or 20%) of your digital cameras histogram. With very light subjects in very bright conditions, I routinely subtract light so as not to clip the highlights. With very dark or black subjects, I tend to add light to maximize the recorded detail. Notice the technicals for the Snowy Owl in my previous post; ISO 200 F9 1/1600 second = ISO 200 F22 1/1250 second (or Sunny F/16 rule for light sand or snow) minus 1/3 stop to preserve all of the details in the whites without clipping (or loosing) any data.

Sounds complicated, but if you spend some time digesting and thinking about everything here; you'll be able to get that once in a lifetime shot accurately and consistently with confidence. Not to mention how much you will impress the boys (or girls) when you are all standing around waiting for the shot or talking shop.

If you own an iPhone or iPod touch, there's a great application available for $1.99 called Exposure Calc. I just found it while writing this blog entry and think it is a great learning aid and pocket reference.

If you don't get it, and need to take a test shot, check the histogram, make adjustments, take another test shot; that's okay too, as long as you're having fun and making the odd good image to keep you interested.

Comments welcome & appreciated.