Manual Mode for More Creative Control

Northern Saw-Whet Owl (Aegolius acadicus, Petite Nyctale) with sprinkle of snow and Meadow Vole (Field Mouse) Lunch. Ontario. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS-1D MKIV, 70-200 F2.8 IS II @180mm. ISO 800, 1/100s F8 Manual. Hand held.580EXII Flash manual mode. Full Frame. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION.

Northern Saw-Whet Owl (Aegolius acadicus, Petite Nyctale) Portrait. Ontario. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS-1D MKIV, 70-200 F2.8 IS II @200mm with 1.4X Teleconverter. ISO 800, 1/80s F7.1 Manual. Hand held. Full Frame. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION.

Choose Manual Mode for MORE Creative Control

If you frequent this blog or my website, then you most probably know that I use MANUAL MODE most often; I expose for the ambient light and focus on making pleasing images. There is another compelling reason to choose manual mode; it makes the photographer (you) think about the three variables that lead to the correct exposure (ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture). What is their relation to the image you are trying to make: Are you photographing a landscape and do you need a large depth of field? A bird in flight and do you need to freeze the action? would you rather create a blur? A bird on a perch and do you want a shallow depth of field? Will changing the ISO help me to achieve the desired result? I find that most photographers in my workshops who use anything other than manual mode are completely unaware of all that is available to them. If you find yourself always choosing aperture priority, shutter priority or program mode, then give manual mode a try next time you get out with your camera.

The Fundamentals of Photography: Understanding the Light Meter

Siberian (Amur) Tiger Portrait Panthera tigris altaica (Tigre de L'Amour ou Tigre de Sibérie). CAPTIVE ANIMAL. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds  www.chrisdoddsphoto.com All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS 1DsMKIII, 500mm F4 IS, 2X II Tele-converter Gitzo 1325 Tripod with Wimberley Head II. ISO 800, F8 @ 1/160s Manual mode. Ambient exposure using hand-held Sekonic L-358 Light Meter. Full Frame. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PRINT or LICENSE IMAGE FOR PUBLICATION.

The in-Camera Light Meter:

Pretty much all digital cameras sold today include a built-in REFLECTIVE light meter. The volume of light measured by a reflective light meter varies relative to the color (or reflectance) of the subject, the background (and the subjects distance from it) and the chosen metering mode (or pattern); A Snowy Owl in a bright, snowy field reflects more light than a black bear on a dark, wet rock. Think of it this way: pure white reflects nearly all of the light that strikes it, and pure black reflects virtually none of the light that strikes it.
Left to it’s own devises, a digital camera in one of it’s automatic modes (Program, Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority) will use it’s built-in computer  processor and programmed algorithms to determine the appropriate exposure settings such as shutter speed, f-stop (or aperture) and ISO to render the scene at what it thinks should be 18% grey, or a mid-tone (exactly mid way between the blackest black and the whitest white). The problem is a simple one; most cameras assume that everything they photograph reflects 18% of the light that falls onto them. Not everything we see or photograph is a mid-tone; with this method, we need to compensate to achieve the correct exposure for anything that is not a mid-tone; The Snowy Owl in a Snowy field we talked about earlier would be about two stops under-exposed, so we need to add about two stops of light to the metered reading to achieve the correct exposure. The black bear on the dark, wet rock will be about two stops overexposed, so we have to remove about two stops of light from the metered reading to achieve the correct exposure. A picture of the green grass on your front lawn is a middle tone and requires no compensation to achieve the correct exposure.
The problem gets much bigger when your subject starts to move from one colored background to another, or, moves closer or further away; can you imagine dialing in the correct exposure compensation, on the fly, as a white bird flies from a blue sky background to a dark cliff face background as it gets bigger in the frame while flying toward you? (smile) ... I didn’t think so.

Hand-held Light Meter:

The single best teaching aid that I know of is a hand-held light meter; students wanting to learn exposure theory tend to improve the exposure accuracy of their captures almost instantly when handed a hand-held light meter.
In it’s simplest form, a light meter measures light;  We’ve discussed how your camera uses it’s meter to measure the light that is reflected from your subject, now let’s talk about how to measure the ambient light that falls onto your subject by using a hand-held light meter. If we can measure the AMBIENT light that falls onto the subject, we can successfully expose for the light (not the subject), and capture colors and tones as our eyes see them; white looks white, black looks black and middle tones still look like middle tones; just the same as our eyes see them. As long as you are in the same light as your subject, and the volume of light does not change between measurement and capture, you can take a reading and lock and load the chosen ISO, F-stop and shutter speed. Just like the sunny F/16 rule in my last post, you should still use your camera’s histogram to tweak the exact exposure to taste, and you should expose to the right and maximize that right most fifth of the histogram, as it contains 50% of the data in a digital capture. I typically add light to extract maximum detail from very dark subjects and remove light from very bright subjects, all the while ensuring I’m not clipping unrecoverable highlight detail.
On a clear day, from two hours after sunrise, until two hours before sunset, the light remains constant (provided it doesn't get cloudy, of course). If your subject flies from the blue sky to a dark cliff face, there is no need to make adjustments to your chosen exposure settings; the subject will be correctly exposed in manual mode.

A major difference between the old film days and digital is that instead of exposing for shadow detail on film, we now expose for the highlight. To ensure a correct exposure for the highlights, simply turn the meter’s dome toward the light source. To take a reading for the underside of a bird flying over your head, turn the dome toward the ground and to establish the correct reading for  a subject in the shade, point the dome toward the light source and use your hand to shade the dome. It won’t take long to learn all about light, it’s volume and the correct exposure relative to it.

There are many light meters to choose from, but I find the best value to be the Sekonic L-358 Flash Master Light Meter

Basic Exposure Theory: The Sunny F/16 Rule Explained

Snowy Owl Bubo scandiacus (Harfang des neiges) Casselman, Ontario. Image Copyright ©Christopher Dodds  www.chrisdoddsphoto.com All Rights Reserved. Canon EOS 1DsMKII, 500mm F4 IS ISO 400, F5.6 1/1600s Manual mode. Full Frame. The chart below (in the cloudy bright column) shows the correct exposure to be ISO 400 F/11 @ 1/400s. I chose to stop the action by using a higher shutter speed, so I used the equivalent exposure of ISO 400 F/5.6 @ 1/1600 second. I also knew to expect less detail in the snow and white feathers, because there are no shadows to help define them.

“What you shooting at there, Dodds?” echoed across the landscape as I set-up to photograph Snow Geese and Sandhill Cranes in New Mexico about a year ago. “What exposure you at Dodds?” was the question asked by the same gifted photographer just recently. I don’t want to embarrass anyone, so I won’t mention any names here. I truly do think that he is a gifted and talented photographer. He’s widely published and is also the first person to admit that he doesn't really know all the “techie” stuff.....and he was much closer to my exposure this year, than last. 

The single most important skill a photographer should have is a basic understanding of the fundamentals of photography. The most important tool, and the least understood aspect of photography is exposure theory. I learned photography with a totally manual camera and used slide film (seems like so long ago), so a basic understanding was necessary to make successful images.

 Q: Why bother when I can just keep things simple and take a picture, check the histogram and make any adjustments necessary? 

 A: Because having an intimate knowledge of exposure theory and your cameras functions and controls helps you grow and improve as a photographer, make better decisions and better images as a result.

In it’s simplest form, the Sunny 16 rule (or Sunny F/16 rule) states: On a bright, sunny day, the correct exposure for any middle tone subject is F/16 at the shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed. For example:

ISO 100 = 1/100 second @ F/16

ISO 200 = 1/200 second @ F/16

ISO 400 = 1/400 second @ F/16

ISO 800 = 1/800 second @ F/16

Now we have established the correct exposure, it’s time to decide if we need more depth of field or shutter speed. Each step up, or down, of one variable represents a doubling, or halving, of any other variable. If you need more shutter speed than 1/100 second @ F/16 (ISO 100), then an equivalent exposure would be ISO 100 1/1600 second @ F/4.

 

This chart illustrates the equivalent exposures for ISO 100 and 200. Each setting above will allow the same amount of light to fall on your digital cameras sensor, or film cameras film. The exposure is the same, with the only difference being either your shutter speed (to freeze or blur action) or the depth of field (very narrow to blur the background, or very large to capture an entire grand landscape sharp).

But wait! It got cloudy. Now what? The Sunny F/16 rule is actually the correct ambient exposure for an average subject under bright sunny conditions. If the sun goes behind a cloud, then the light falling onto your subject is decreased and you must make an adjustment to your basic exposure settings. Here are some aperture settings for some different daylight situations:

This is intended as a starting point, so there are exceptions. Backlight or sidelight both require adjustments to reach the correct exposure. It’s a good idea to expose to the right with your digital camera; 50% of the recorded data is recorded on the right fifth (or 20%) of your digital cameras histogram. With very light subjects in very bright conditions, I routinely subtract light so as not to clip the highlights. With very dark or black subjects, I tend to add light to maximize the recorded detail. Notice the technicals for the Snowy Owl in my previous post; ISO 200 F9 1/1600 second = ISO 200 F22 1/1250 second (or Sunny F/16 rule for light sand or snow) minus 1/3 stop to preserve all of the details in the whites without clipping (or loosing) any data.

Sounds complicated, but if you spend some time digesting and thinking about everything here; you'll be able to get that once in a lifetime shot accurately and consistently with confidence. Not to mention how much you will impress the boys (or girls) when you are all standing around waiting for the shot or talking shop.

If you own an iPhone or iPod touch, there's a great application available for $1.99 called Exposure Calc. I just found it while writing this blog entry and think it is a great learning aid and pocket reference.

If you don't get it, and need to take a test shot, check the histogram, make adjustments, take another test shot; that's okay too, as long as you're having fun and making the odd good image to keep you interested.

Comments welcome & appreciated.